Lazy days in Rayong

Cruise along the coastline and be amazed at the lovely - and usually empty - beaches. But go soon - the developers are catching on


Rayong is only two hours from Bangkok, and that includes a few pit stops. Once there, you have a 100-kilometre coastline full of weekenders trying to decide on the best spot to settle amid the cool breezes off the gulf.

Join in the decision-making, and don't forget Samet and Mun islands waiting out in the water.

For years Rayong's accommodations have been showing their age, and the swarms of Thai beach-goers never seemed to mind, but a handful of new developments have sprung up recently.

Driving from Bangkok, the mainland beaches start in Ban Chang district, 35km from the town of Rayong. Pala and Payoon beaches are popular, but the sands at Mae Ramphung, 11km outside the town, are even busier.

First-time visitors are sure to be surprised by the cleanliness of this 10km stretch, but keep in mind that part of it lies within Khao Lamya-Mu Koh Samet National Park.

There's only one drawback, as noted by Noom, who's exploring the area with his family from Bangkok. There's no place to spend the night.

"With the main road running parallel to the sea, you can't find a single hotel by the beach at Mae Ramphung," he says.

So Noom will carry on to Laem Mae Phim beach, or take a boat to Koh Samet, where he can spend his holiday right on the shore.

Ban Kon Ao has long been a fishing village and certainly has that aroma about it, but it can't beat the bustling Ban Pae market, full of dried seafood. It's a vibrant place, packed with souvenirs, and an ideal spot to grab some barbecued squid on a stick with chilli dip.

Ban Pae is best known as the ferry dock for Koh Samet; tourists head to Koh Kudi for the day from here, too.

Ban Pae is also home to the Rayong Aquarium, and has its own broad beach - Suan Son - with a long line of splendid casuarina trees, picture-perfect with Samet as a backdrop. They line both sides of the road towards Laem Mae Phim.

The seafood market at Suan Son is lively in the morning, when the fishing boats return with their catches - crabs, mussels, oyster, squid, prawns and lobsters heaved onto the docks in buckets.

People come all day long to shop, but the best stuff is gone by mid-morning. What you do have at any time of the day is the charming ritual of the fishermen - their boats perched on cartwheels on the shore - reloading their nets.

There's a lot of new construction now in the Laem Mae Phim area. The building work on a few large condominiums is underway right by the beach.

Laem Mae Phim remains popular among Thai tourists with its many bungalows for rent, all crowded on weekends but virtually abandoned on weekdays. Few restaurants open on weekdays and some of the bungalows' kitchens close, so you need to drive elsewhere when you're hungry.

Laem Mae Phim is also the jumping-off point for the three Mun Islands - Koh Mun Nai, Koh Mun Klang and Koh Mun Nok. It takes about 50 minutes to reach them.

And finally, Bangkokians who didn't get enough Songkran fun will find the water-splashing Wan Lai festival taking place today in Pattaya, and more New Year celebrations at Mab Ta Put in Rayong on Monday.

Here's a map

From Bangkok, take Sukhumvit Road and Bang Na-Trat Road to Ban Bung district, or drive to Chon Buri, Sri Racha or Pattaya to get to Rayong's Muang district.

From Ban Bung, follow the Ban Bung-Klaeng Road - Route 344 - via Wang Chan district to Klaeng district.

Stay here

The Kantary Bay Hotel and Serviced Apartments is a decent chain outlet and a favourite with expatriates and executives working in the East. Visit www.KantaryGroup.com.

The Novotel Coralia Rim Pae has hotel rooms on the beachfront and bungalows across the road. It's at www.Novotel.com.

The Ohana Resort is a

10-room hotel on Mae Rampheung Beach. See www.Ohana-Resort.com.

The Rayong Resort is a full-scale hotel fronted by its own private beach. Log on to www.RayongResort.com.

The Villa Bali Resort is a small, peaceful Balinese-style hotel near Laem Mae Phim. It's off the beach, but has good facilities and its own dive centre. See http://Villa-Bali.net.

The Baan Siri on Sea at www.BaanSiri.com is a well-run resort right by the Laem Mae Phim beach, great for families.

The Samed Club @ Noina Bay, part of the Samed Resorts Group, is a comfortable retreat on Noi Na Beach on Koh Samet. Visit www.SamedResorts.com.

The Lima Bella Resort on Sai Kaew Beach is a new sister resort to the Limacoco Resort on Ao Prao. It has a pool in a tropical garden. Find it at www.LimaBella.com.

The Bari Lamai is a new resort on Laem Mae Phim Road near Suan Son. All rooms here have a sea view. Click to www.BariLamai.com.

Eat here

Pad Thai Khun Krai, famous for its phad thai, is on Pae Klaeng Kram Road.

Ao Kai Seafood by Kai Bay near Laem Mae Phim has fresh fish and shellfish.

Tamnan Pa has a glowing reputation for its jungle-style decor and selection of good Thai food.

Paya, right by Mae Rampheung Beach, is popular for its fresh seafood.

by

Vipasai Niyamabha