In love with Lanna

With plenty of low-cost flights available, popping up to Chiang Mai for a 48-hour break makes perfect sense


With great street food, a vibrant nightlife, superb temples and a range of outdoor activities, the charming capital of Northern Thailand makes for a great escape. Here are some tips on how to spend the ultimate weekend.

Friday, 4pm: Arrive in Chiang Mai and head for the Rachamankha, (053) 904 111.

This small boutique hotel is located just behind Wat Phra Singh, and its design pays testament to Lanna arts and culture. The low-rise complex follows the tradition of an ancient Chinese courtyard, with an open space surrounded by lovely rooms and gardens. The tiled roofs, whitewashed walls and golden parasols are inspired by Wat Phra That Lampang Luang in Lampang province.

7pm: Travel from Thapae Gate to Nong Hoi neighbourhood, and sample the local dining scene at Lung Rad Kai Ob Fang restaurant. This is uncle Rad's joint, a friendly beer garden and popular place to hang after work. Relax with a beer at a rustic wooden table under a thatched roof sampling such Lanna delights as sai ua (pork sausage), larb khom (bitter spiced mince) and om (bitter soup). Not to be missed is the house special, straw-roasted herbal chicken with a spicy dip.

9pm: It's Friday night, and Chiang Mai is brimming with pubs and bars. If you're in the mood to dance, try the Riverside Pub & Restaurant, (053) 243 239, beside the Ping River. This is a spacious venue with a fine selection of food and drinks and good live music from 10pm, so the dance floor is usually writhing with beautiful people. If it's too crowded for you, head to Mandalay, (053) 208 395-8, a dance club with a wild streak.

Midnight: After sweating it out on the dance floor, you need to fill up before hitting the sack. Down a narrow lane beside Wat Saen Fang is a food stall known locally as Daeng Pak Ma (Daeng "the Bad Mouth"), a reference to its moody owner. Ignore the name, though. The stall serves excellent soft-boiled rice and tasty accompaniments. Personal favourites are the fried morning glory, and the salted egg with fried vegetables.

Saturday, 6am: You can't say you've been to Chiang Mai unless you've witnessed the hurly-burly of a market. Head to the markets at Kad Luang, Chiang Mai Gate and Ton Lamyai, find a nice coffee stall, and watch the city spring to life.

9am: Chiang Mai City Museum (www.ChiangMaiCityMuseum.org), a short walk from Wat Phra Singh, takes you on a historic journey

back to the city's origins. The

renovated town hall exhibits

artefacts that date from pre-historic times to Classic Lanna, from stone caves to golden teak-wood mansions. It's open daily, except Mondays.



Noon: Time for lunch, and Rachamankha is a great place to eat. Porcelain from the Ming Dynasty on antique Chinese tables give an elegant air to the restaurant, but do check out the airy and leafy courtyard, where you can also wine and dine. Enjoy a glass of chilled champagne and savour a selection of authentic Lanna and Shan dishes.

3pm: On the east bank of the Ping River, southeast of municipal Chiang Mai, is the ancient town of Wiang Kum Kam. Established by King Meng Rai in the 13th century as a centre of Lanna, the ancient town was flooded, buried, and considered a "lost city" for centuries. The Fine Arts Department excavated it in the 1980s, and the ruins are well worth a visit. Take a tuk-tuk (Bt150) from Thapae Gate to Wiang Kum Kam or better still, rent a bicycle (Bt20) at the Visitor Centre.

5pm: Black Canyon, a coffee shop next door to Thapae Gate, is the best place to have a beer - or a coffee - and watch the world go by. The restaurant has a counter on the terrace outside its air-conditioned room, and the best seats are those facing the high wall of Thapae Gate, from where you can view an ever-changing scene of tuk-tuk drivers, street hawkers and backpackers.

7pm: If you've had enough sai ua sausage, nam-prik num (green chilli dip) and hung le curry, why not try the foie gras and fillet steak at Le Crystal? This riverside French restaurant also has an impressive wine list.

10pm: Your trip to Chiang Mai wouldn't be complete without shopping, whether for woodcarvings, hilltribe clothes, paintings or silverwork. These and much more can be found all over the city until late at night.

Sunday, 9am:

After a bowl of rice congee and Chinese buns at Santi Restaurant at Chang Phuak Gate, it's time to visit the temples inside Chiang Mai's old town. Wat Chiang Man, Wat Saen Fang, Wat Phantao and Wat Phra Singh stand side by side, and they're peaceful in the morning. Again, your best mode of transportation is bicycle.

Noon: Head to the corner of Singharat and Rachadamnoen Roads, and have lunch at Baan Laansa. Converted from an old wooden house, the pleasant guesthouse serves great fusion and Northern food. You'll love the shady garden and easy-going ambience. Since it's Sunday the Rachadamnoen Road will be car-free, so take the opportunity to finish up your shopping before heading back to the Rachamankha.

4pm: Fly out of Chiang Mai.

Phoowadon Duangmeejavascript:void(0)
Publish Post

The Nation